IF what-to-expect lists usually read like a string of news, the one that’s about to unfold reads more like a what-not-to-expect. It should tell you something about the winds of change blowing through the fashion system right now. Last season’s New York Fashion Week was marked by the departures of Rodarte , Proenza Schouler , Altuzarra and Thom Browne , who moved their presentations to Paris. Yet there were still surprises in store: Rihanna ’s Fenty x Puma show received rave reviews, and Ralph Lauren hosted his show in his Bedford garage for a decidedly personal touch to the schedule. But for autumn/winter 2018, even more designers are abandoning the schedule, and only two are visiting from out of town. If the seven days of women’s shows (and three days of men’s shows that precede them) are anything to go by, it’s not the beginning of the end just yet, but this season ‘what to expect’ definitely has a different ring to it. Celebrating the opening of his sprawling Madison Avenue store, Tomas Maier is relocating his co-ed Bottega Veneta show from Milan to New York for one season only. The move makes sense for the house. Maier’s ateliers are based out of New York, and recent collections have breathed a younger, fresher air into the house, which connects well with a transition to New York Fashion Week , even if it’s only temporary.
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